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CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列于2023年12月7日在英国曼彻斯特顺利发布。有别于品牌的其他大秀，高档手工坊系列可谓CHANEL四肢百年老字号的一张显著王牌。
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列
高档手工坊系列（The Métiers d’Art collection）浓缩了CHANEL旗下工坊树立，自2002年起每一年CHANEL齐会在寰球选择一座城市来举办这一盛事，借此赏赐工匠们超卓的工艺与孝敬，旨在体现CHANEL的品牌文化与法国挥霍工艺的好意思好愿景，可见这一卓越的系列于CHANEL繁多大秀中的地位之重，也因此在举办地址上，CHANEL很顾惜调整品牌和当地文化的关联性，在往年，纽约、罗马、达喀尔、萨尔茨堡、达拉斯、上海等外洋城市齐参与过高档手工坊系列的发布。而2023年，CHANEL将高档手工坊系列带回到了英国，不外发布会安排在英国的曼彻斯特，而非更有名的伦敦。这一音讯甫一公开就让外界感到惟恐，骇怪进程不亚于2012年的选址苏格兰的林利想哥。
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引发创作力量的曼彻斯特
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的曼彻斯特
曼彻斯特的前卫印象相较伦敦来看，在外洋上存在感不高，当地培养出贝克汉姆等大牌球星的足球俱乐部比英伦格调的期许要来得径直。但四肢英国第二大华贵齐市，曼彻斯特的流行产业并不比伦敦忘形，比如进展的音乐文化偏执催生的系列艺术创作，还有另一大被渐忘许久的身份：“棉花之齐”。两百多年前，这里出生了宇宙上最早的近代棉纺织大工业，是工业编披缁祥地，因此在很长一段时辰里，曼彻斯特是英国最结合前卫产业源泉的中心。
体育彩票22选5玩法
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的CHANEL
经由逾百年的历史，曼彻斯特已非狄更斯笔下那充满试验讽刺的工业城市，也非上世纪80年代寂寞乐队们嘶吼下的悲不雅印象，如今这里发展出“早餐要饮香槟酒”的闲情逸致和实时享乐的生计立场，这是酿成曼彻斯特创意活力的要津。名义温顺不羁的曼彻斯特看似和CHANEL塑造的失掉宇宙出入甚远，但某种进程上这两者其实存在共性：一方最早完毕当代工业化从而酿成壮盛计方式，一方为女性野心全新的生计状况、自由服装敛迹。这两者结合的构想从一酿成便带有超高期待值，于前卫界来看这种天然产生的营销力无疑充满招引。
Jamie Hawkesworth镜头下的CHANEL
手捏如斯上风，CHANEL的应酬也卓越出色。创意总监Virginie Viard细心索求了曼彻斯特的流行音乐基因，并录用导演、品牌形象大使Sofia Coppola创作拼贴格调的短片，以明甘愿泼的韵律展现这座城市的创意活力。影片不仅呈现了这位服装野心师在英国的历史影像，还以数十幅画面记忆了曼彻斯特在音乐、文体、建筑与见地等品牌重心关怀鸿沟的先锋影响力。追随曼彻斯特有名乐队New Order的名作“Blue Monday”的节律下，同期展示英国影相师Jamie Hawkesworth为本次系列卓越创作的彩色影相作品，他以半记载片的拍摄面貌记叙了一群生计在曼彻斯特的年青东谈主若何演绎最新的高档手工坊系列。
玄色T恤连衣裙饰以刺绣徽章、紧密天鹅绒jersey针织面料见地衫配以点缀斜纹软呢饰带的褶裥胸饰、多色的Lesage刺绣软呢外衣，交汇丹宁面料或粉色调圈圈纱线搭配同色系鸭舌帽、粉彩色调针织作品与醒目精良细节的波普红、芥末黄与淡紫色套装逸态横生。“对我来说，曼彻斯特是名副其实的音乐之城平博骰宝，它蕴涵着引发创作的力量。”Virginie Viard共享了打造这一系列创意造型的灵感。曼彻斯特的亚文化街头气味在她的巧手调整下呈现一种绝不突兀的融合节律，正如这里的多元文化般，每一种齐能在包容的曼彻斯特找到零星的一派社群寰宇。
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列发布现场
除了精彩的预报片除外，还有本次看点满满的秀场野心。本次曼彻斯特之行安排在当地北角的托马斯街，品牌在这个曾被《期间周刊》评比为“宇宙上最酷的社区之一”的场所搭建起透明的遁藏屋顶，大秀举办今日正好是黯澹绵绵之日，这一秀场竖立可谓很曼彻斯特了。不少东谈主号召这次发布适度后应该保留这处透明屋顶以造福当地东谈主，应酬曼彻斯特长年多雨的天气，而CHANEL的这一溜动也将会对当地产生深入的积极影响，为其日益兴起的挥霍消耗场景增添另一层更在地化的理性效应。
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交融CHANEL好意思学的
醒目复旧调色板
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列部分造型
Virginie Viard为最新的高档手工坊系列注入丰富的60年代流行元素，也对品牌标志性的斜纹软呢特色进行了创新解读。CHANEL的前卫总裁Bruno Pavlovsky谈及推敲灵感时表示香奈儿女士与斜纹软呢的分缘恰是从英国运行的，她曾从那时的恋东谈主the Duke of Westminster的伊顿庄园里借穿过斜纹软呢夹克，并深喜爱上了这种面料，将其带回巴黎。在上世纪50年代，香奈儿用贝雷帽搭配西服套装和平底玛丽珍鞋的造型，将斜纹软呢的魔力实行至寰球，这一面料也成为品牌中枢象征元素之一。
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列部分造型特写
不外，Virginie Viard不想在经典上炒冷饭，“天然斜纹软呢依旧是这个系列的中枢主题，我回首了好多对于香奈儿女士的故事，但我不想疏导她身披西敏公爵外衣的造型。反倒是她赋予斜纹软呢纷呈颜色的力量带给我好多启示，我想不时这种性格，为它们注入簇新和流行气味。”而曼彻斯特多元的流行文化布景给Virginie Viard这次的创作准备了近乎竣工的铺垫。当发布会拉开帷幕时，系列中醒想法波普颜色和亮眼的包饰在片刻拨动了现场不雅众的面貌共识。Virginie Viard并莫得直白地强调所谓的音乐格调，而所以鲑鱼粉、南瓜橘、苹果绿、芥末黄、太空蓝、正红与锈红色等缤纷多彩的视觉渲染上世纪中期的流行诗意。
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列部分造型特写
野心细节上，外衣下摆的链条、对比色的内衬面料、多重的绗缝修饰等处置令服装上的组合裁片愈加行为自由，充满当代气味的同期更致意了香奈儿女士的精工剪裁。裙腰所用面料与外衣和大衣的内衬相呼应，在视野上取得不时效力。而裹身裙、戈黛迷你裙、百慕大短裤、衬衫与大衣式连衣裙等单品均以斜纹软呢设得的兰羊绒针织与推敲面料打造，飘溢别致的英伦风情。剪裁上也卓越贴称身型，半身裙接收稍稍低腰的野心。
赔率小于一
CHANEL 2023/24的高档手工坊系列部分造型特写
le19M大楼中的高档手工匠东谈主们经心制作的褶裥、羽饰与刺绣以及帽子和珠宝钮扣等细节无疑是所有系列中最勾东谈主心的部分，天然别致的印花比如茶壶、黑胶唱片与可儿的花朵图案等亦然当中灵动的点缀，与牛仔裤、皮革、针织娃娃裙寝衣与露肩连衣裙等共同构成带有浓厚曼彻斯特风情的完整系列。
周迅&桂纶镁
数据分析在本次CHANEL的曼彻斯特秀场中，咱们还看到熟练的周迅和桂纶镁的倩影。早于秀前一晚周迅还不雅看了曼联球赛，实地体验了曼彻斯特的温顺生计和流行文化氛围。在开秀当晚，周迅身着CHANEL高档定制系列的斜纹软呢套装搭配亮片刺绣挎包和首饰，与桂纶镁相谈甚欢，现场状况大好，看得出二东谈主此趟曼彻斯特之旅感受可以。
苏格兰摇滚乐队Primal Scream的上演现场
秀后，CHANEL还于当地的二级保护建筑的Victoria Baths举办了独家的after-party，该风景由品牌的尊贵嘉宾倾城缓助。而苏格兰摇滚乐队Primal Scream的上演充分调高了所有行为的摇滚懊悔，为现场嘉宾留住记起的夜晚。
Virginie Viard谢幕
从现在各方的评价看来，CHANEL这次的曼彻斯特大秀收货了巨额招供。曾野心了据说乐队Joy Division的专辑封面的英国平面野心师Peter Saville在秀前预热本领就感触谈，CHANEL这次行程将突显曼彻斯特在足球鸿沟除外的全新外洋形象，是双赢的押注。“It’s good for Chanel and it’s good for Manchester.”其实纵不雅CHANEL多年的Métiers d’Art大秀，取得如斯收效是在猜度之中的。
在善变确当下前卫环境，高档手工坊系列幕后所忽视的价值不雅值得品尝。
除了是对600多位手工艺东谈主处事心血的赏赐和上流的致意，在行为选址上也体现了新期间下去中心化的民主趋势与多元对等的期待愿景。向来带有浓厚阶级示意的挥霍牌在期间争议之下要想对传统规章进行更正，蹧蹋既有圈层欢腾的局限是获取更多市集好感，完毕存效长久运营的要津。而CHANEL勇于迈出远隔传统前卫城市的一步，多年来在各地深度探寻发掘拓展品牌文化可能性的作念法可谓展现了一家百年品牌独具慧眼的花式。下一座前卫新齐会是那儿？我肃静在CHANEL 2024年的时装秀日期上作念了辅导象征。
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